Random History Bytes 107: Atlantic County, "In Ye Olden Time" - And Now

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John H. Yates

Last Update: Wed Oct 26 09:04 EDT 2022


Random History Bytes 107: Atlantic County, "In Ye Olden Time" - And Now
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ATLANTIC COUNTY,
"IN YE OLDEN TIME" - AND NOW.

Although the county of Atlantic has generally been considered as an integral part of the old county of Gloucester, and separated from it by reason of the large extent of territory and the difficulties attendant upon the administration of justice, yet all this was anticipated nearly two hundred years ago by our far-seeing ancestors, as appears by the following, as extracted from Leaming and Spicer's laws of 1694:

"Be it enacted by the authority aforesaid, That the inhabitants of the said Egg Harbor shall be and belong to the jurisdiction of Gloucester county to all intents and purposes, till such time as they shall be capable, by a competent number of inhabitants to be erected into a county, any former acts to the contrary notwithstanding."

The original political and judicial divisions of West New Jersey, as made by the Legislature in 1682, were Salem and Burlington counties, the first of which included what is now Cape May, Cumberland, Salem, Gloucester, Atlantic and Camden counties, and the last Burlington and parts of Mercer, Hunterdon and Warren counties.

As might be expected, the first settlers knew but little of the geography of the land they occupied, and they fell into many errors when attempts were made to establish political divisions, some of which errors led to litigation and occasionally to armed resistance.

The persistent efforts of Edward Byllynge to assume the government of the Province, and the firm resistance of the Proprietors thereto, caused much confusion among the emigrants and delayed the development of the Colony. During the interval of the sittings of the Legislature from this cause, which extended from May, 1682, (excepting one day in 1685) to November, 1692, the people settled about Newton, Gloucester, Red Bank and Egg Harbor met at Arwames (Gloucester) May 26th, 1686, and formed what may be termed a county constitution, which was intended to apply to the third and fourth tenths, being the territory lying between Penisaukin and Old Man's Creeks, both of which streams fall into the Delaware river.

This was the origin of "Old Gloucester, the only county in New Jersey that can deduce its existence from a direct and positive compact between its inhabitants." In 1694 the Legislature better defined the boundaries as follows:

CHAPTER VI.
An act for the boundaries of Gloucester County.

"BE IT ENACTED by the Governor, Council and representatives in this assembly met and assembled and by authority of the same, That the two distinctions or divisions heretofore called the third and fourth tenths, be and is hereby laid into one county named and from henceforth to be called the county of Gloucester, the limits whereof bounded with the aforesaid river called Cropwell on the north, and the river Berkley (formerly called Old Man's Creek) on the south."

This description, although bearing legal sanction, and presumably drawn from the best information to be had, shows how meagre this information was where no mention is made of the boundaries on the eastern slope of the State, or of the waters falling into the Atlantic Ocean.

It would appear that the inhabitants of Cape May county, had or assumed jurisdiction over part of the territory, now in Atlantic county, as on March 20th, 1693, the court of that county sitting at Coxe Hall, on the bay side, appointed John Somers, supervisor of roads and constable of Great Egg Harbor. January 21st, 1709 this subject appears to have again received the attention of the Legislature when the following act was passed:

"Gloucester county begins at the mouth of Penisaukin creek; thence up the same to the fork thereof; thence along the said bounds of Burlington county to the sea; thence along the sea coast to Great Egg Harbour river; thence up the river to the fork thereof; thence up the southermost and greatest branch of the same to the head thereof; thence upon a direct line to the head of Old Man's creek; thence down the same to Delaware river; thence up the Delaware river to the place of beginning."

The bounds of Burlington county, here referred to, are as follows: "Thence along the southermost branch thereof, (Penisaukin creek) sometimes called Cole's branch, until it comes to the head thereof, which is the bounds betwixt Samuel Lippincott's and Isaac Sharp's lands; thence upon a straight line to the southermost branch of Little Egg Harbour river, including said Sharp's land, in Gloucester county; thence down said branch and river, to the mouth thereof; thence to the next inlet on the south side of Little Egg Harbor's most southerly inlet;" thus showing, that more care, in connection with better knowledge of localities, had been used in fixing the lines of the old bailiwick, and which boundaries have remained, so far as Atlantic county is concerned to the present day.

Another boundary in due course of time attracted the attention of the inhabitants, and was the cause of much trouble before it was finally settled; this was the line dividing the river townships, that is Waterford, Gloucester, Deptford, Greenwich and Woolwich, from the ocean townships being Galloway, Egg Harbor and Hamilton, and now the line between the counties of Camden and Gloucester, and the county of Atlantic.

For many years it had no importance, because of the sparse settlements in "the woods," and the small amount of tax assessed upon real estate, making it of little interest to any one to know its true locality, although such division existed on the statute books at least, and the people in their township capacity, from the beginning, recognized it.

About the middle of the last century, it became a mooted question among the settlers, and property owners in its supposed vicinity; and for several years the assessors and collectors of the adjoining townships, were subjected to much annoyance on account of its uncertainty.

In the year 1765, Samuel Clement was appointed by the Justices and Board of Freeholders, of Gloucester county, to run and mark the several township lines among which was the boundary in question. Much care was exercised in the work, and a well executed map was returned to the Court, showing the whole proceeding.

The lapse of years, and the greed for timber, had removed most of the landmarks, as fixed by Samuel Clement, and in 1834 it became necessary to retrace the line as run by him in 1765. Great difficulty was encountered by those entrusted with the work, as the "oldest inhabitant" thereabouts, and who, perhaps, was present in 1765, when the trees were marked, the hills crossed and the streams forded, had gone to his last account, and no one could be found who had any direct knowledge of the original work. Experimental lines were opened, old men taken upon the ground and questioned,ancient trees were examined and boxed, the "Mount Hope hills," which were regarded as an initial point, (although about the middle of the line,) were shown to be in two or three different places, thus mystifying the matter in question, and throwing the practical men of the Commission almost entirely upon the old map as left by the surveyor in 1765. It was soon found to be a reliable paper, as the distances between the streams, the roads and other known points, corresponded with the work in hand and settled the line, as the then object was, between the townships; and since February 7, 1837, it has been the acknowledged boundary between the counties of Camden and Gloucester and the county of Atlantic.

Of the Indian settlements within the bounds of Atlantic county, but little at this time is known, no pains having been taken to preserve their history and keep their names and traditions in remembrance. Sufficient remains, however, to show that they had settlements in various places, and there can be no doubt that the blood of the aborigine flows in the veins of some of the descendents of the old families.

"How readily could the prowess of many of the "mighty hunters" of by-gone days, in these parts, be traced to the Indian blood that darkened their skins and toughened their sinews, and how many facts relating to these intermarriages would now be regarded with interest, if some one had but put them in an endurable form, so they might be read and known of at the present day.

The Mullica Indians, whose name was derived from Eric Mullica, a Swede, who settled very early on the east bank of Little Egg Harbor river, near Batsto, were no doubt a branch of the warlike tribe of Atsionks. They, the Atsionks, had their principa village near where Atsion now stands, and hence the name; and claimed the right to hunt, fish and cut limber on the main branch and all the tributaries of Little Egg Harbor or Mullica's river.

The Tuckahoe Indians, a much more peaceful tribe, had their homes on the river of that name, in the southern part of the county, and where some few traditions are yet remembered of them.

Between the two tribes there was considerable intercourse, and in early times in going from one place to the other, they were known to cross Great Egg Harbor river at Inskeep's ford, now a bridge, about two miles south from Winslow. At this point they would generally stop for the night, always sleeping in the open air, and never remaining after sunrise in the morning.

The first European settlers in this county were "whalemen," coming from Long Island, New York. The capturing of the great aquatic mammal to secure the "oyle and bone" was profitable in those days, they being so numerous that nothing more than small boats were needed; coming near the shore and having but little fear of their mortal enemy. The houses of these hardy men were generally on the beaches near the sea, and where they had their apparatus for securing the oil and places for storing the bone. Very many of the present residents can trace their lineage to these first-comers, and perhaps have some knowledge as to their settlements and occupations; but all the stories of exciting scenes and hair-breadth escapes in the pursuit of their calling have been forgotten and lost sight of. The game they sought were giants, and nothing but skill, patience and a cool head could win in their terrible encounters.

The manufacture of salt by evaporation was extensively carried on in former years along the coast. The system was a primitive one, and the same as practiced "beyond which the memory of man runneth not to the contrary." Large shallow vats made of plank, wherein the sea water was pumped and left exposed to the rays of the sun, which had the effect to carry off the liquid and precipitate the salt to the bottom. Wind mills were always attached for pumping purposes, thus saving labor and furnishing a sufficient supply of water to the vats.

Care had to be taken to prevent rain from falling into the water to much increase the evaporation and delay the making. This was done by large sheds so arranged as to move back and forth as necessity required, making employment for several men. This salt had the preference as long as manufactured, being much cleaner and of better quality than any other in the market. The introduction of this necessity from the mines soon reduced the price so much that the works along the coast fell into decay, and at this time are entirely abandoned.

The cedar swamps were also a temptation, when shingles and staves could be so easily and so cheaply procured, and found ready and profitable sale in the West Indies. Gradually saw mills were built and ship boards cat and carried to New York and Philadelphia, thence to England, France and Germany.

There was also in those early days, much value in the furs and skins procured by the Indians, and bartered with the first settlers in that region. The remains of the beaver dams, yet to be seen, show that this animal could be found on almost every water course. Their mode of operations was ingenious, and shows a degree of sagacity at once striking and of much interest. If the flow of water was heavy and uncertain, dams would be built from the shore obliquely across the flat land until the stream was reached, which would be tapped at some suitable point, and only sufficient water be turned into the dam for their purposes, thus avoiding the probable destruction of their undertaking by a flood or overflow.

When a direction for their work was once fixed upon, nothing was allowed to prevent its being carried out. Large trees would be cut down, as if with a saw; logs removed and bogs filled up. Everything that would obstruct their fishing, interfere with their feeding, or endanger their security, was removed; and it required a perfect knowledge of wood craft, and a familiarity with their habits, and great care and patience to successfully hunt them. On the smaller streams, the dam was placed directly across, always however, leaving an outlet at one side for the water to escape in case of a freshet.

In the northern part of the county, between Atsion and Batsto, another system appears to have been adopted. The water from the main branch of Machesautuxen was carried to the eastward, through the high grounds, by means of ditches or canals, into a smaller stream known as Sleepy Creek, where dams were erected and where the beavers had their dwellings. It was a skillful operation to carry the water in this manner from one stream to the other by reason of the slight fall, but it was accomplished, and their works may there be examined at this day to prove the engineering capacity and perseverance of this remarkable animal. What necessity there could have been for such extensive and laborious operations must be left to conjecture. Higher up the same stream a series of dams were erected, flooding the whole valley for several miles, and so destroying the timber, that to the present time but little has grown upon the soil, leaving it, however, a valuable pasturage for cattle during the most of the year. The study of these evidences of animal sagacity, which were quite equal to the rude human intelligence that surrounded them, is deserving of more care than it has, as yet, received, and when properly considered, will disclose many things unknown in regard to them.

In these localities, where nature is left almost untouched, and where nothing has been done by man to destroy these objects of interest, there is room for wide speculation and a large field for theory and argument.

It is evident that the Indians and beavers lived upon friendly terms until the incoming of the European emigrants, who made it the interest of the natives to destroy them for the skin and fur, and from that period their extermination was but a question of time.

Here began the injustice done this untutored people, in the exchange of trinkets and rum for their peltry, at prices sadly beneath its value, and too often without any consideration at all. The effect of spirituous liquors upon this race of men, has became part of its history, and could not have been unknown to those who allowed avarice to get advantage of their better judgment.

At that day no religious, denomination had enjoined its members touching its use, and the church was frequently scandalized, even through those whose example should have been the true guide. It was legitimate traffic, and those who secured the best bargains, no matter what the equivalent, were recognized as the fortunate men.

These pioneers were mostly members of the religious Society of Friends, and established meetings in several places along the shore. Perhaps the first in Atlantic county, was that at Somers Point, by John Somers, Jonathan Adams, John Scull, Jonas Valentine and Peter Conover, about the year 1695. The oldest preserved records show that in the year 1726,a monthly meeting of Friends was held at Richard Somers' house, on the Egg Harbor side, and at Rebecca Garretson's house, on the Cape May side, alternately, where first-day meetings, and week day meetings for worship, were also held, perhaps from the date first named. About 1728, a meeting for worship was established at the "widow" Deborah Leeds' house, near Leeds' Point, which was continued until a few year past, when the meeting was laid down and the records removed.

These old books contain much of value and interest to the genealogist and antiquarian, showing the marriages that were solemnized, the births and deaths that occurred, and the removals that took place in these several meetings for many years, thus connecting the present generation with those through whose bravery, whose patience and whose industry, we are now permitted to occupy the land. The calling of our sturdy ancestors was exposing and dangerous, and it was a strange sight to see them in their broad brimmed hats and plain drab coats, armed with harpoons and axes, prepared for a contest on the water. Brave, deliberate and wary, they had the warrant of success when fighting these leviathans of the sea, and found much gain in their exciting occupation. Perhaps the quiet of their religious meetings was occasionally disturbed, when some one in passing would sound the alarm of, "now she blows!" "now she blows!" to call together a crew for service, and if some two or three of the little assemblage were expected to respond, the delay of the head of the meeting to end the sitting very soon became irksome and annoying.

As early as 1693 a ferry was established by the Legislature at Egg Harbor, in the following words:

"WHEREAS, There has been a complaint made to the House for want of a ferry at Egg Harbour, in order to redress which grievance, be it hereby enacted by the Governor, Council, and Representatives in this present Assembly met and assembled, and by the authority of the same, that the justices of the county of Cape May are hereby empowered to erect and set up a ferry at the said Great Egg Harbour, which person or persons appointed by them for the purpose aforesaid, shall and may exact for the passage of every single person twelve pence, and for horses and cattle twelve pence per head, and for sheep and hogs four pence per head, and for all manner of grain two pence per bushel."

This ferry was across Great Egg Harbor river, from Somers' Point to Beesley's Point, and where it was expected a town would soon be built. This is also apparent from the deeds made by Doctor Daniel Coxe, of England, to the West New Jersey Society, in 1691, in which, among other real estate conveyed, were "certain town lots at Perth Amboy, Gloucester and Egg Harbour." The exact site of these lots extendeth beyond the memory of the oldest inhabitant, yet it cannot be doubted they once existed, or such a clause would not be found in so important a document as above named.

The act shows how the charges were to be regulated so that imposition should not exist and passengers be sure of transportation. From the width of the river at that point and its exposure to the winds from the ocean, this ferry sometimes had an embargo upon it, as the means for crossing was but an open boat worked by sails and oars. Primitive as these appliances were, they met the needs of the inhabitants and were quite up to the times.

The building of the bridge over the river a short distance below the present one at May's Landing soon changed the line of travel, and the ferry at Somers' Point gradually lost its importance and was finally abandoned. The town lots as there laid out in anticipation of its being a central point for trade and business, and the head of navigation as well, shared the same fate and to the present generation are entirely unknown.

This but illustrates that which has occurred so often since, in the change of lines of travel, where economy in time, better facilities and reduction of cost can be secured, and by which so many well laid plans and plausible theories have come to naught, to the discomfiture, and sometimes utter ruin, of adventurers and speculators.

This is a progressive people, taking advantage of everything that aids them in locomotion, regardless of whom it may injure, or to whose benefit it may tend.

Doubtless those who sought the aid of the Legislature in establishing a ferry between Somers' and Beesley's Points, regarded the building of a town at either place a necessary sequence, and made haste to secure the land and get gain thereby, not thinking that any other means of communication between the two counties could be devised.

Colonel Thomas H. Benton once said that the buffalo established the courses and positions of the great highways across the continent of America; so the aborigines fixed the pathways from the Atlantic ocean to the Delaware river, across the State of New Jersey, and long before the white man attempted to explore the forests, the lines of travel through the country had become plain and beaten roads.

For many years after the first settlements on the ocean and the river, the only track between them was along the Indian trails. There appears to have been several of these trails through Atlantic county, one starting from Somer's Point and extending along the east side of Great Egg Harbor river, so as to go to the north of the heads of the several branches of Babcock's creek, and over the low lands made by the near approach of that branch to some of the tributaries of Little Egg Harbor river, called "the Locks;" by Blue Anchor, and crossing the head of Great Egg Harbor river at Long-a-coming, (Berlin,) passing a short distance south of Haddonfield, and striking the Delaware at Cooper's Point.

The second, coming from the mouth of Little Egg Harbor river, in a westerly direction, and falling into the first-named trail, near the head of Landing creek, one of the branches of the last-named stream.

The third began near Mullica's plantation, a short distance from Batsto, and going in a westerly direction between the streams to the first-named trail, at the old "Beebe Place," about one mile south of Winslow. The fourth was called the "Old Cape road," starting in Cape May county. It crossed the head of Tuckahoe river, in a northerly direction, and to the west of the branches of Great Egg Harbor river to the upper waters of Hospitality stream, at Cole's mill; thence to "Inskeep's ford," and joining the first-named road at Blue Anchor, all tending towards William Penn's thriving village of Philadelphia. Parts of these old Indian trails are still used, but most of them are not known to the present generation.

Blue Anchor was a central point, and where people from different parts of the country could be seen almost every day; where news could be gathered, the topics of the day discussed, and matters of business transacted. And who but has heard of this old hostelry! First as a log cabin, and kept by John Hider, as early as 1740. Eight years after John Briant occupied the premises, and in 1762, Robert Mattox became the owner, and lived there many years. His daughter, Elizabeth, married Josiah Albertson, who took possession about 1812, and built the present house, and remaining there until the railroad was carried through, when the old place lost its importance. Are there any of the descendants of the old families along the "shore," from Chestnut neck to Tuckahoe, but have some knowledge of this wayside inn? Where entertainment for "man and beast" was of the best; where there was always a guarantee of choice meals and clean beds; of a quiet house and but little drinking; where so many made it the half way stopping place in driving from the coast to Philadelphia, and who always found their horses well cared for and fresh the next morning for the long journey before them; where sportsmen delighted to quarter when in search of deer and bear in days long passed away; and where oyster and fish dealers always found a place for their jaded teams in the ample out-buildings, and for themselves before the wide-open fire of the bar room; where land owners and speculators "most did congregate," to talk over the value of timber, settle disputed boundaries, and carry out contracts already made; where passengers by stage were glad of an opportunity to "stretch their limbs," and renew their strength at the table or before the bar.

As the aborigines, in laying out their roads from one point to another, did not regard distance, and avoided the use of bridges over the streams by going around them, so our worthy ancestors adopted the same rule from sheer necessity, and accepted the situation until means could be provided to make the roads shorter by building bridges. The two roads coming "off Egg Harbour" fell into one, east of the "Locks," where great efforts were made to improve it by a "corduroy road" through the swampy lands. This entailed much expense upon the people and led to great controversy, but no other outlet could be found, hence the necessity of such an improvement.

Much appears in various old papers in regard to this, showing the same differences of opinion that exists at the present day, when a like effort is made and must be paid for out of the assessed taxes. This improvement was a step in advance, and assured travelers that their wagons need not stick in the mud at the "Locks," and there remain until others came along who had previously been in a like dilemma, and through sympathy rendered willing assistance to get them on to the fast land.

Nothing of this old road is now left, and the oldest inhabitant cannot trace it through the improvements of the thrifty Dutchmen who now occupy the soil where it was once in existence and regarded as a good and important thoroughfare.

The first attempt to lay a public road according to law in what is now Atlantic county, was previous to 1731, as will appear by the wording of the return of a highway laid by authority March 15th, in the year last named, to straighten and improve the one mentioned. The return is a curious document, and will be read with interest by those who have suffered defeat in making applications for roads through some apparently immaterial defect in preparing the papers. With some abbreviations it reads as follows:

"Forasmuch as there hath been a road formerly laid out for the inhabitants of the township of Egg Harbor, in the county of Gloucester, to travel from the east end of the shore to Sumers' ferry; and whereas, the said road there laid out is since found inconvenient for the said inhabitants by reason of the swamps and marsh which the said road passeth through, so that the inhabitants have been necessitated to make application for alteration of the road aforesaid, and accordingly have made application to Thomas Wetherill, and others, six of the surveyors of Burlington county, to join with John Eslick, and others, six of the surveyors of Gloucester county.

"Now we, the said surveyors, twelve in number, agreeably to an act of the province, in that case made and provided, having found said road inconvenient, do see cause to make the following alterations: Beginning at Naked creek, and from thence as the same was formerly laid out and now beat, to Jeremiah Adams' bridge. Thence over the same, and so on, as the road is now beat, 'till it comes near William Read's house. Then by a line of marked trees, on the northwest side of said road, 'till it comes past the said Read's house. Then along the beaten road, 'till it comes to John Steelman's land. So then by a line of marked trees, on the northwest side of the beaten road, 'till it comes near across said Steelman's land. Then along said beaten road to Absecon bridge. Then over the same, and so along the beaten road, 'till it comes near Jeremiah Risley's house. Then by a line of marked trees, on the northwest side of the beaten road, part over Daniel Lake's land and part over said Risley's land, and so into the beaten road again, and so along the same 'till it comes to Abel Scull's land. Thence crossing said Scull's land, by a line of marked trees, 'till it comes near David Conover's house, and from thence along the road as it now lyeth, to the landing near Richard Sumers' house. Dated 15th day of March, 1731."

This paper has some noticeable peculiarities. No notice of the time or place of the meeting of the surveyors appears to have been required or given, the most of whom lived many miles from the shore.

Although the road to be laid out was entirely within the bounds of Gloucester county, yet an equal number of the surveyors of highways were from Burlington county; and the description of the courses and distances as made, would not stand the test of the law of the present day, in such cases made and provided.

The residences of several of the "oldest inhabitants" can be readily traced by this document, and may settle some mooted questions in that direction, and further shows that "Sumers' ferry" was an objective point, and of much importance in that day.

In 1762 a road was laid from Moorse's mill to Clark's mill, and the next year one from Tuckahoe river to Gibson's creek; and in 1775, a road was laid from the landing on Richard Somers' land to the King's road, from Egg Harbor to Gloucester. The records show many other like improvements, indicative of the increasing population and wants of the people.

The religious advantages of the first settlers in Atlantic county were meagre indeed. The Society of Friends erected a few small buildings for public religious worship at different points along the shore, and were only supplied with preachers from long distances.

The old minute books of the meeting at Shrewsbury, in Monmouth county, of that at Salem, in Salem county, and of that at Newton, of old Gloucester county, if preserved, would doubtless show that traveling Friends occasionally found their way to these meetings in the wilderness, proving the sacrifices they were willing to undergo, to minister spiritual things to the little congregations that assembled there.

The journals of distinguished ministers who visited this country at an early date, disclose the many difficulties to be overcome, and the trials and sufferings to be passed through, to reach these out of the way settlements.

Here they always found those who adhered faithfully to the creed of the Church, and were exemplary and worthy members of this religious denomination, and whose precepts and examples were felt among the rude and untutored people who surrounded them.

About the middle of the last century the Presbyterian church sent missionaries into Atlantic county, who accomplished much among the scattered inhabitants, more particularly with those not connected with the Society of Friends, or coming within its influence. Unlike the Friends, however, this first attempt to disseminate their religious doctrines was never entirely lost sight of, and from these small beginnings sprung several flourishing churches. The Rev. Allen H. Brown, a gentleman whose self-sacrificing life has been devoted to doing good, and whose name is always mentioned with respect among the people of Atlantic county, exhausted this subject in a historical sermon delivered before the Presbytery of West New Jersey at Bridgeton, in 1865, showing the trials and discouragements this branch of the church had passed through during that period, but withal keeping pace with the wants of the people and the demands for religious instruction.

The records of Christ church, in Philadelphia, Pa., disclose some curious facts in connection with the early efforts of the Episcopal church, through its missionaries, sent out by "the society for the propagation of the gospel in foreign parts," established in London, England, to proselyte and build up churches in this part of New Jersey.

It is here shown that a few families "along the shore" were connected with it, but never enough to secure regular services or erect buildings.

The records before named run in this wise:

Baptisms by the Rev. Mr. Sturgeon, at Egg Harbor, New Jersey, April 23d, 1763.

Edward, son of Edward and Millicent Doughty, born November 20, 1750.

Sarah, daughter of the same, born February 27, 1752.

Samuel, son of the same, born March 10, 1756.

Mary, daughter of the same, born January 13, 1758.

Millicent, wife of Edward Doughty (adult).

Mary, wife of Robert Doughty (adult).

Abel, son of Robert and Mary Doughty, born August 18, 1752.

Sarah, daughter of the same, born May 5, 1754.

Millicent, daughter of the same, born April 27, 1756.

Edward, son of the same, born November 26, 1758.

Christianna, daughter of the same, born December 27, 1760.

Rachel Carty (adult).

Elizabeth, daughter of Isaac and Sarah Midwinter, born August 19, 1748.

Nathaniel, son of Margarett Risley, born March 18, 1759.

Millicent, daughter of the same, born April 22, 1761.

Hannah, wife of Jonathan Doughty. Mary, daughter of the same. Abner, son of the same. Jonathan, son of the same. Zepheniah, son of the same. Rebecca, daughter of the same.

These are "Egg Harbor" names, even to the present time, and among the earliest settlers there.

The Doughtys came, probably, from Long Island, and located at and near the present village of Absecon, having always been large land-holders and among the leading citizens.

The duties of clergymen were not always confined to preaching and the baptising of children, but were often enlarged to that of the marriage ceremony, and if the records of the old Wicacoa church, also at Philadelphia, and of other ancient churches of the realm, are still extant and could be examined, many such occasions would there appear, much to the gratification of such as care to know of their ancestors.

The hold of Quakerism was at that time too strong for the established church to make any great inroads, and the families in that region who adhered to its doctrines were too few and isolated to warrant the building of places for divine worship.

These facts are, however, worth recording, so that some anxious seeker in days yet to be, may know in what direction to turn his steps.

Next came the fiery and aggressive Methodists. Their system of itinerancy, coupled with their persistent efforts to advance the cause of religion, soon made many proselytes. The preachers, always suiting themselves to surrounding circumstances, suffered nothing to turn them aside from their purpose. Not long was it before the success of this sect was assured, and step by step has the society advanced until the membership outnumbers that of any other in the county. Their camp meetings were always an attractive feature in this sparsely settled and heavily timbered country, drawing together large assemblages within the sound of the gospel. There were all the zeal and fervor of the preacher put forth; there were the most spirited and soul-inspiring hymns made to resound through the forest; and there the power of prayer was exercised among those who but seldom, except on these occasions, come within the influence of religious teachings.

Other religious denominations have entered upon the same field, but found it occupied, and hence met with but indifferent success.

The lands along the sea coast and navigable streams soon attracted the attention of the proprietors and were located at an early date, the inducements being, as before mentioned, the fishing, the cedar timber and the peltry. Thomas Budd, a proprietor, and the owner of many thousand acres of rights, made several large surveys on the beaches and on the main land. He came to Burlington in 1678, and afterwards removed to Philadelphia where he died. Under his will his widow Susanna Budd, as executrix, sold much of his real estate. There was some defect in the titles made by the widow, but of what character is not at present known, many of which were however cured by his son John Budd, who was the heir-at-law, executing a release to such lands as had been by the widow conveyed. The lapse of time has destroyed all knowledge of the difficulty or of the means used to bring about the settlement of the claim of the son John.

Thomas Budd, however, sold much of his land on the sea coast before his death. In 1695 he made conveyance to John Somers, then of Great Egg Harbor, for 1,500 acres, in several tracts, lying on Great Egg Harbor river and Patconk creek.

In the same year he sold to Jonathan Adams, of Long Island, 200 acres bounding on the same streams. At the same date he sold John Scull, of Long Island, 250 acres in the same neighborhood. Also, to Jonas Valentine, of Long Island, 100 acres, and to Peter Conover, of Long Island, about the same date, 250 acres, likewise bounding on Great Egg Harbor river and Patconk creek. Each of these deeds has this clause inserted: "With the privilege of cutting cedar, and commonidge for cattell, &c., on ye swamps and beaches laid out by ye said Thomas Budd for commons."

At that date such privileges had significance and value, and if now claimed and exacted would cause much contention and trouble, as a large portion of the built-up part of Atlantic City stands upon one of Thomas Budd's surveys. Other beaches that were by him located, and now desirable watering places, would come within the same category, and be subject to the same easements.

Thomas Budd also sold lands at Egg Harbor, to James Steelman, John Gilbert, and doubtless others, who neglected to record their titles, and hence nothing remains at this day that gives their name and generation.

It may not be out of place to particularly mention a conveyance that will interest the folks about Absecon, but of which they have little knowledge. December 3d, 1695, John Reading made title to Thomas Budd, for a tract of two hundred acres called "Mount Eagle," on the sea coast, near Great Egg Harbor, on the easterly side thereof, bounding with Absecon creek, alias Reading river, the southerly end fronting on the sound or mouth of said creek, &c., &c. Who of Absecon, at this day, can point out "Mount Eagle," or declare they heard the old folks call the stream "Reading river?" Who in that region of country can boast of the old parchment deeds, with the sign manual of one of the original proprietors, and his enormous seal thereto attached, having been preserved by his ancestors to the present owner, confirming or contradicting what is here written? In 1699, Susanna Budd, executrix, as before named, conveyed one thousand acres at Absecon, to Peter White, of Burlington county, N.J., it being one of the surveys made by her husband on the sea coast.

Francis Collins, who came from Oxfordshire, England, in 1678, and settled near where Haddonfield now stands, made locations in Atlantic county, in 1698, most of which he conveyed to his children before his death. Proprietors (who never came to America) made, through their agents, large surveys in this region for the purpose of obtaining some value for the rights assigned them under the various dividends made by the Council of Proprietors, and the West New Jersey Society, an association of gentlemen in London, secured large tracts of land in the same section of country, about the year 1742.

Very many small surveys were made as the people increased, generally, however, near the shore, and by those of limited means. The vague manner of description, regarding the boundaries and monuments of many of these surveys, particularly, the large ones, has been a source of dispute and litigation, from the location to the present day, and will continue, as the land increases in value, and the owners become more tenacious of their rights. The soil, after the timber was removed, had no appreciable value, and the ownership was frequently ignored to avoid taxation.

In these latter days, however, and since the building of railroads, much of the land in this county is found to be well adapted to agricultural purposes, and has a gradual, but permanent advance in price.

A noticeable feature in this county is the many abandoned places, where formerly stood dwellings surrounded by considerable arable land, sometimes in the midst of the forest and away from any leading thoroughfare. At these places, perhaps, lived several generations of the descendants of the original settlers, at last seeking new homes nearer the cities, or in the far West.

In many instances, families who years ago lived upon these deserted lands, have been forgotten, and to the present owners entirely unknown. To trace them at all, and then but indistinctly, the old and time-stained records must be examined, which but too often yield poor and doubtful knowledge of them.

It would appear that in early times, that part of old Gloucester county, now Atlantic, was regarded as one township, and called "Egg Harbor," as in the year 1753, Daniel Scull, as Collector of Egg Harbor, paid to Ebenezer Hopkins, County Treasurer, thirty-four pounds, six shillings and eight pence, as county tax. In 1754, Ruddick Townsend, as Collector of Egg Harbor, paid to the same person thirty-five pounds, ten shillings and ten pence as county tax, and in 1755, John Somers, as Collector of Egg Harbor, paid the same person forty-five pounds, seventeen shillings and six pence as county tax.

In 1753 the Assessor's fees for Egg Harbor were one pound, six shillings and eight pence, and in 1754 the fees for the same services were one pound, eight shillings and nine pence.

This shows how sparsely the territory was settled, and what little value was attached to real estate in that region at that time, and will compare strangely with that of the present day within the same boundaries. And on the credit side of the accounts of the same county officer may be found items which to the inhabitants will appear strange. In 1749 a bounty of one pound was paid George May for one wolf's head; of one pound and ten shillings to Indian Sam for two panther's heads; of one pound to an Indian named John Powell, for a wolf's head; of one pound to an Indian named Oliver, for a wolf's head; of fifteen shillings to Richard Fry, for a panther's head; of one pound to Recompence Scull, for a wolf's head; of one pound to an Indian called Lockus, for a wolf's head, and of one pound to Philip Scull, for a wolf's head.

In 1753 a bounty of one pound and ten shillings was paid to Gideon Scull for two panther's heads; of the same amount to Edmund Doughty, Jr., for two panther's heads; of three pounds to Andrew Griscom, for a wolf's head, and of three pounds to Nathan Carter, for a wolf's head.

The inducements held out by the legal authorities for the destruction of these animals, shows how numerous they were at that date, and how destructive they were to the sheep and cattle of the inhabitants. Such a sound in these days as the cry of the panther in the swamps, or the howl of the wolf in the forest, would startle the whole community, and keep every one safely within doors from the going down of the sun at night to the appearing thereof in the morning.

It would bring back many long forgotten stories of terrible conflicts between some wild beast and the pack of hounds that had caught it after a long and tedious chase, of a predatory wolf that "bay'd the moon" near some out-lying habitation, while in search of a stray pig or calf that happened in the woods at night, and which, after much stratagem was trapped and killed; of a night hunt, at which all the men and dogs of a neighborhood were brought together to "drive" a swamp and capture, if possible, a panther, which was the terror of the whole region; of the "varmint" being hard pressed, at last "took to a tree," around which a fire was built and a watch set until daylight when it could be the more certainly killed.

And also of the baby, who lying in a gum log cradle by the side of its parents cabin, and carried off by a she-wolf, and saved just as she was about to feed it to her young; and of the nocturnal visits of this common enemy, against whose cunning and sagacity the people could scarcely protect their stock, and which was never safe, beyond the cleared land about the dwelling.

The manufacture of iron in New Jersey from bog or meadow ore may be traced to a very early date, and gave employment to many laborers and artizans. Much the largest deposit of this peculiar formation was on the western tributaries of Atsion or Little Egg Harbor river, in Atlantic county, extending from near the sources of these streams as far southeasterly as where Egg Harbor City now stands. As late as 1830 fourteen furnaces and cupolas, and as many forges, were in active operation in New Jersey, using only the bog ore found in the swamps and low lands. Many conveyances are in existence and of record showing the purchase and sale of land merely for the purpose of digging and removing the surface ore, and after such had been done, reverted to the grantor. Frequent litigations grew out of these grants, sometimes from their vagueness and uncertainty of description, and at others from dispute as to location, showing their value at that day and how tenaciously the owners and claimants adhered to their rights. In 1801 a memorable chancery suit was decided by Richard Howell, then Governor and Chancellor, between the owners of Atsion and those of Batsto, involving questions of this character, as well as the use of the river as a canal to carry ore to the Atsion furnace, and also the taking of water from Machesautuxen branch to the Atsion furnace pond by means of "Salters' ditch," and which right, since the cultivation of cranberries on the bottom lands adjoining that stream, has again been brought in question.

The forests at that day, regarded as inexhaustible, supplied the proper fuel in the shape of charcoal, and the owners of the furnaces reaped large profits in producing this useful metal.

The furnace at Atsion was founded by Charles Read in ______, and was continued by various subsequent owners until the ore became so scarce and the expense of transportation so great that no advantage could be realized.

The next in the county was that at Weymouth, established by Charles Shoemaker, and others, about the beginning of the present century, and continued for many years by William Richards, the ancestor of the present owner. Others in the county of later date were worked for a few years, but scarcity of ore and the development of the same industry in the State of Pennsylvania, so cheapened the cost of iron that none are now in existence here.

The old bog ore swamps, however, are again filling up, and one hundred years hence may find the same places supplied with ore ready for the furnace, bnt never again as valuable as it was to our ancestors. The same elements are still there, and the waters that permeate the soil, bringing to the surface the oxide of iron which they precipitate when in contact with the atmosphere, is doing the same work and producing the same crude material as that used so advantageously by the first emigrant settlers in this region of country.

How curious and how interesting would be the history of the discovery and manufacture of iron in West New Jersey!

The discovery of ore in the bogs was perchance by some metal worker, fresh from his native soil, who for the time in search of game in the forest, found himself knee deep in a slough, covered with a red slimy substance, that stained his clothes, and hindered his progress; and while standing by its side, contemplating his sad plight, discovered, what he thought, were particles of iron ore adhering to his dress.

From inquiry among the Indians, he found they knew nothing of its ingredients, and only used it mixed with bear's oil, for war paint, daubing their naked bodies, and thus making themselves hideous to behold. A more careful examination, proved that in dryer parts of the swamp, the substance was hard, and could be dug with facility, confirming his suspicions as to what it was, and deserving an experiment how to utilize it.

In due time a rude furnace is built, and in the presence of the wondering natives, a few pounds of metal are produced, in every way like the home commodity, and adding one other advantage to the land of his adoption. Capital was soon attracted into this channel, and better means secured to make the manufacture of iron a success. Practical artisans were induced to emigrate, and accept lucrative compensation for their skill; a home market was soon found, and the iron interest of West New Jersey assumed an importance not anticipated in the first location of what were called "the barren lands," to say nothing of the pots and frying pans made in the presence of the aborigines, and exchanged with them for the title to their soil; too often, it may be said, rendering but a poor equivalent for the acres of valuable timber land and cedar swamps thus procured.

The extensive tracts of original forest lands, that lay too far from navigation to be of value to lumber dealers, in the course of time fell into the hands of speculators, among whom they became parts of keen bargains and sharp transactions. The haste to get gain induced many to join in new schemes to make the timber profitable, but all were found to be visionary and unreliable.

About the year 1814, William Coffin purchased of William Griffith two tracts of timber land in the northern part of the county, whereon had already been built a saw-mill, and which he managed advantageously. In 1819, Jonathan Haines obtained a half interest of William Coffin, and they, as partners, originated the "Hammonton Glass Works," the first attempt (after the iron furnaces) to utilize the growing timber in such manner as to make it of any value.

This drew together many workmen, and soon developed other advantages to the owners which evidenced their foresight and business tact. William Coffin subsequently became sole proprietor, enlarging the business and continuing many years, receiving the sure reward of industry, economy and perseverence.

This was the "money centre" of the region round about, and brought there all such who, for work and labor done, needed supplies from the store or cash from the purse of the owner.

From this small beginning other like factories sprung up in the "Pines;" these individuals having demonstrated that the manufacturing of glass could be made remunerative, where pure white sand and plenty of timber were to be found, even if the transportation was tedious and expensive.

But Atlantic county has taken a new departure. The building of the Camden and Atlantic Railroad, in 1854, infused new energies into the whole territory. Another population, with different views and different purposes, was attracted within its borders, and soon entered upon industries and enterprises impracticable before the completion of that work.

Thousands of acres in their primitive condition have been cleared and are now under cultivation. Intelligent industry has upturned the virgin soil and made the waste places to yield their abundance. The impenetrable swamps of olden times are to-day valuable meadow lands, and the many streams that formerly ran to waste now furnish the power where hundreds of persons are employed in manufacturing some useful and necessary commodity.

The bogs and slashes - harbor for vermin and breeding places for mosquitos - are mostly drained and covered with cranberry beds, giving work to many women and children, and a fair remuneration to the owners.

The perseverance, industry and economy of the German shows as much success in these wild lands as the enterprise and ingenuity of the Yankee, each, however, in his particular way proving the advantages of the soil and climate. And he who is "to the manor born," profiting by the example of the strangers about him, finds his own worn out acres to contain the elements of a valuable farm, and enters upon its improvement with the assurance of success and profit. The days of charcoal burning and pine tar making are numbered, for the land once covered with the grand old forests now yields its annual produce to an industrious and thrifity population, and the soil that was never before open to the genial rays of the sun, is now covered with the plants, vines and fruit trees of the owner.

And now let us call the spirits of Thomas Budd, of Philadelphia, and of John Scott, of Rhode Island, from their dusty beds, who in the flesh in 1695 and in 1714, each made a survey on "Absequan" beach, where nature had been untouched, and where, but for the roar of the sea, solitude reigned supreme; where the "commonidge for cattle" extended from the surf to the thoroughfare, and from the Inlet on the north to the Great Egg Harbor river on the south; and ask them to look upon the changes thereabouts since that time.

Suppose them beside the surf, in view of the barren waste of former days, now covered with a "city by the sea," filled with a population seeking the invigorating and healthful influences of the Atlantic Ocean, and what would be their surprise!

The ever-changing sand-hills have vanished, the stunted and storm-killed cedars, that protected the shore and sheltered the cattle, cannot be seen, and the places of the salt ponds and slashes are now scarcely known.

Only the ocean is the same, as when they directed the deputy surveyors to fix the boundaries of their land and in their names to take possession thereof. What could exceed their astonishment were they to look upon the scene as now presented, comparable with its condition then.

Before them are wide, graded and well-cared-for avenues, and beside which are erected hotels, cottages and private dwellings, where style of architecture and beauty of design cannot be excelled.

Suppose them to be near the railroad depots, and witness the thousands of people who daily visit the place for health and recreation, and well might they doubt the evidence of their senses.

And in these latter days let us look into the quiet study of Doctor Jonathan Pitney, at Absecon, and listen to his arguments, directed to his old friend and neighbor, General Enoch Doughty, endeavoring to convince him of the feasibility of a railroad from Philadelphia to Absecon beach; how it would develop the General's extensive acres, and in a few years pay upon the investment, by reason of the travel to such a desirable summer resort, to say nothing of the legitimate business in freight and transportation along the line. How the General would state his misgivings and refuse to be a convert to the florid theories of his sanguine host, departing, however, with the wish "that such things might be," yet unable to see it even in the distant future.

Not discouraged, however, we may follow the Doctor on his way from home to Philadelphia, and hear him importune the large landholders along his route, making a plausible case by figures and arguments, but not fully bringing them to his own notions.

Alone and without assistance we see him before the Legislature, asking a charter for his favorite scheme, and which was not objected to, "because a proposed railroad with but one end would never be built," and afterwards how the "solid men " living and owning property between the two points, with one voice, called it a visionary scheme that would never be accomplished.

A few bold spirits were at last enlisted and the work under the charter began. At once the want of practical railroad men was felt, and much loss and delay occasioned thereby. The location of the line, in going from Camden, was the source of considerable controversy, until Winslow was reached, whence an unbroken forest extended to the salt marsh.

Unlooked for troubles met them at every step - yet the work made slow but positive progress, and when the rails were declared as continuously laid from Cooper's Point to Jeremiah Leeds' house, much gratification was manifested, even the croakers were pleased and admired the daring and courage of the projectors.

And now the Camden and Atlantic Railroad is as necessary to the wants of the people as any of the great rivers in our land, beside whose banks cities and towns have arisen, and from the borders of which, civilization and the development of our country took its start. Along this highway the land is already occupied, in places reaching for miles back on either side, and used for agricultural purposes; while near the road villages have sprung up, where artizans find healthy homes and profitable employment. Truly Atlantic county has arisen, and is to-day, with the additional railroad facilities of the Philadelphia and Atlantic City railway, and the branch of the West Jersey Railroad from Newfield to the same point; pressing to the foremost place among the bailiwicks of our State, and ere long will stand side by side with any other for breadth of cultivated acres, the extent of her water powers, and the beauty and healthfulness of her summer resorts.

                          SEPTEMBER, 1880.                JOHN CLEMENT.

Clement, John, "Appendix: History of Little Egg Harbor Township." Proceedings, Constitution, By-Laws, List of Members, &c., of the Surveyors' Association of West New Jersey (Camden, NJ: S. Chew, Printer, 1880), 401-420.
Note: John Clement (1818-1893) was a surveyor, and in 1880 Secretary of the Surveyors' Association of West New Jersey. He was also a respected historian, publishing a number of books and articles on West Jersey History.